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INFORMATION

- ABOUT THE BREED FINNISH LAPPHUND - ​

HERE do you find the breed standard for the Finnish Lapphund

HERE do you find a breed-specific breeding strategy (RAS) for the Finnish Lapphund

HERE you can find information about the breed at NKK

HERE you find out how the breed standard should be interpreted

- ABOUT HEALTH - 

HERE  you will find information about hip dysplasia (HD) from the NKK

HERE do you find information about PRA-prcd 

HERE  you will find information about Pompe's disease

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COOPERATION AGREEMENTS

- Why cooperation agreements? -

All individuals have the right and claim to a valuable and good life. Therefore, it is important not to keep more dogs at home than you actually have the opportunity and space to take care of. In order to be able to develop our own breeding work for the future, good collaboration partners are necessary. This is to be able to get breadth in the breeding material, and to be able to take care of puppies from our own breeding.

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PURCHASER AND PART OWNER

We are constantly looking for good foster families/share owners for one of our puppies - based on what we intend to keep from each individual litter. If you have read up on and feel that this could be something for you, please feel free to contact us. 

As a foster/share owner, you enter into a partnership with us, you get the most promising puppy from the litter, and together we exhibit and prepare the dog for breeding. I think it is crucial that you are interested in training the dog, among other things, for exhibition . 


It is important that, before entering into a cooperation agreement, you are clear that the dog will return here and have a litter of puppies, and that you must be able to be without the dog during these periods. 

If you feel that such an agreement is right for you, there is a great opportunity to get a promising show and hopefully breeding dog. We work closely together to achieve the best for the dog. 


Part owner buys the dog for the puppy price. We have the option of up to 2 litters per dog (bitch). Part owner receives a partial sum of the puppy price per litter.

Get in touch to find out more about our feed host and share owner agreements. And gladly
 send a message or e-mail if this might be something for you/you. I would then like the form (you can find in the side menu) to be filled in and attached.

CARE OF THE DOG

- Advice and tips on fur care -
It is recommended to start as early as possible with grooming, bathing and claw clipping, so that the puppy gets used to it at a young age. Combine grooming with a positive experience, by giving a reward right after you finish, as well as giving lots of praise along the way. 
Bathing can be challenging the first few times, but if you bathe regularly, it will become easier each time. It is very unpleasant for the dog to get water in the nose and ears. When the dog's head is to be washed, you can gently bend it backwards towards the dog's back, and pour water from the eyes and down the body. The dog will then automatically close its ears even if the head is bent backwards. 
A brush, comb, carder, claw tongs and dog blower can be nice to have and get your dog used to early on.
The Finnish Lapphund breed has a thick coat that means it can withstand the cold well. The fur consists of two layers; undercoat against the skin and more long-haired fur on the outside. 
Shedding takes place at least once a year, and then a lot of underwool falls off in small daughters. This is easy to collect, but it pays to brush/blow the dog especially during this period so that you get rid of all the fur around the house. When they shed, it is important to pay extra close attention to the fur around the ears, under the front legs and between the thighs, as tangles can easily form. 
Apart from shedding, regular brushing and grooming is a good idea. While some brush weekly, others think that a couple of times a month is enough. It is important to keep track of what your dog needs in terms of care to avoid tangles and matted fur. Damp and matted fur can lead to eczema/wet eczema.
When brushing the tail, it is important to brush right down to the root of the tail as that is where the tangles are. Use a brush with long bristles to avoid pulling out unnecessary fur from the tail. 
The fur is self-cleaning, so it needs little care (bathing) even if the dog is dirty. Sand and debris fall off when the fur has dried, and remain where the dog stayed during the drying time (you get the most out of it if you use a dog blower, this is brilliant!). Sometimes a bath is needed, and then dog shampoo can be used. 
- Advice and tips on nail trimming -
It is necessary and very important for all dogs with regular claw trimming. The claws grow quickly, and must therefore be maintained all the time so that the nerves inside the claw do not grow long. With long nerves in the claw, it will be difficult to get the short ones back. Long claws can quickly become damaged, as they break and chip. 
How often you need to clip varies from dog to dog. If you walk a lot in soft terrain such as forest terrain, you usually have to mow more often, because they will not wear themselves out. With high activity and particularly hard surfaces such as asphalt, the claws will wear down more easily. It may still be a good idea to cut the clothes every two or three weeks. By maintaining the claws, you will avoid injuries and veterinary visits. It is easy to break the claw, which usually means that it has to be pulled. Damage to claws is treated by a veterinarian. If your dog is struggling with chipped claws, it may be that your dog lacks e.g. B vitamins. Vitamin B can be given pure or via other supplements that are added to food daily if necessary. 
The claw should always be cut around the living part, rather than across. When beveling from the sides, you angle the scissors so that you remove most of the underside. In a bright claw, you will see through the claw where the nerves and blood vessels are. If you see that there is red inside the claw, it is the white part outside this field that must be cut away. Some dogs find claw clipping to be their worst nightmare. Therefore, start with the hind legs, as the claws here are often shorter and less sensitive. Dogs can often overdramatise the claw clipping, so it is important not to let the dog down if it starts to twist or howl and scream. 
Giving treats for every clipped claw can make the situation more stressful and prolonged. Rather, give praise and rewards in the form of treats and play when you have finished the whole process (all legs).

EQUIPMENT FOR THE FRAME

Brush

The longer the tags, the better. Make sure there are no plastic knobs on the tips of the tags.

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Comb

Consider small sections in the hallway, and comb with short ceilings. Good for fur by the ears, and incipient tangles.

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Card

The longer the tags, the better. Brush against the fur's growth direction, then you lift the fur so that the skin gets air.

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Poodle comb

This comb is fantastic during shedding periods. Removes the undercoat easily when combed through.

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Metal harrow

Effective metal brush for breeds with thick fur and undercoat.

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Nail scissors

A good nail clipper is absolutely necessary. If it is dull, it can lead to chipping of claws and discomfort during clipping.

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Blows

This one is gold and a great investment! It helps to remove loose fur during the shedding period, as well as dirt from the fur all year round. It dries the fur after bathing/hiking in wet terrain, which can prevent wet eczema or other problems that can occur with wet fur over a long period of time.

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